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Miko's Lovebird Corner: Lovebird Care

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Sexing Lovebirds

For those of you who are wondering if your bird is a male or female, here's some tips for you (not always accurate):

1. Mature female peachface lovebirds have a tendancy to tuck things in their rump. This is nesting instincts.

2. Males may upchuck their food for you or for a female. They may chose you as their mate, if you don't have another bird.

3. Males may rub their behind on something constantly. This is what they would do when they are on top a female.

4. Could always try the pelvic test. Pointier pelvic bones may suggest you have a male. Wide pelvic bones may suggest a female.

5. Sometimes you can tell the sex by their tail. When the bird takes a bath and spreads the tail feathers, see if the tail feathers are all the same length, or if it's tapered. I think if its the same length, it's a female.

6. Sometimes you can tell the sex by the way the bird stands. If its feet is spread far apart, it may be a female. If the feet are close together, it may be a male.

 

Clipping Wings

Wing clipping is more for the intermediate lovebird caretaker.  The following picture outlines which feathers to cut.  Note: If your bird starts to bleed after you cut the feathers, it means you cut a blood feather (located by the primary coverts). I've been told that if such bleeding occurs, use flour or cornstarch to stop the bleeding.


[I forgot where I borrowed this picture from, but if you know the source, please let me know. I want to give credit to whoever placed this picture online. Thank you whoever you are!]

UPDATED! HOW TO CLIP A LOVEBIRD'S WING
 


Step 1: In this photo I have spread out the wing of one of my lovebirds.  The diagram to the right is labeled with letters.


 

Letters A-I: These feathers are the DORSAL MAJOR PRIMARY COVERTS (here in after will be referred as "Covert feathers"). 

Letters J-T: These feathers are the PRIMARY AND SECONDARY FLIGHT FEATHERS.


 


Step 2A: In this photo I am going to cut the PRIMARY FLIGHT FEATHERS (Letters: E-K). Notice that you can still see the COVERT feathers (Letters: A-D).  I am ONLY going to CUT the PRIMARY FLIGHT feathers BELOW the COVERT feathers.  If you cut above the Covert feathers, the bird will bleed because you have cut a blood feather.  Immediately clog up the bleeding feather with cornstarch or flour.

 


Step 2B: Even though you cut the PRIMARY FLIGHT FEATHERS, your bird can still fly a little.  To completely ground your bird, cut BOTH the PRIMARY and SECONDARY FLIGHT FEATHERS. 

Notice that the bird's COVERT feathers have not been cut at all. (All of the Covert feathers have been labeled: A-H).

 


Step 3A: This is the photo of my bird's wing once you have cut ONLY the PRIMARY FLIGHT feathers.  Notice that the SECONDARY FLIGHT feathers have NOT been touched.

Step 3B: This is the photo of my bird's wing once you have cut BOTH the PRIMARY and SECONDARY FLIGHT feathers.  Notice that the Covert feathers have NOT been touched.

 

Step 4:  You are done and made it through cutting the lovebird's wings.


Other Wing Clipping References

http://www.parrotparrot.com/lovebirds/wings.htm

 

Nutrition

Lovebirds like a variety of foods.  Provide their regular daily seeds (you can use either parakeet or cockatiel seeds), as well as clean water.  My lovebirds are spoiled by only eating sunflower seeds from the cockatiel mix, so I sometimes substitute with parakeet seeds only.  Some lovebirds eat cooked rice and other grains (such as oats), or fresh fruits and vegetables.  Some lovebirds may only be used to seeds, so try to experiment and get them acquainted with fruits and vegetables.  They might enjoy it.  Also, don’t forget to get them a cuttlebone.  This is a white block used to keep their beaks trim.  If you are planning to breed the birds, this is important because it’s a good source of calcium which is used to create the egg.   Another thing to keep in mind is the type of containers you use for food and water.  If the containers have a small opening for the bird to have access to, the bird may not be familiar with that type of container, which may result in the bird starving or dehydrated.  Make sure your bird knows how to access the food and water.

 

Treating Your Bird (Note: These are only suggestions to be used at your own risk).

If your bird is starting to puff up and not acting like its normal self, its a pretty good sign that your bird is sick.  The number one way to treat your bird is to take your bird to the vet.  Here are some suggestions that I have tried on some of my birds.  If your bird is wheezing and sneezing, the bird may have a respitory problem.  I have used Aeromycin Powder to help cure some respitory problems.  My formula is to add 1/4 teaspoon of the powder to 4 cups of water.  Stir it well and give to the bird for about one week.  If it still persists, continue treatment for another week or take your bird to the vet.  If your bird is dehydrated, I have been told by some breeders to give the bird some Pedialite thats also used to help with dehydration in children.  It helps give the birds a little more energy.  Do not give the bird sports drinks because it has too much sodium.

 

Housing

It all depends on what you want for the bird.  For mine, I used a shelf and created ladders for them to go up and down each shelf.  The ladders were made of wire metal mesh that was stapled to the wooden shelves.  If you prefer a cage, you can get one that measures at least 24 inches square, with bar spacing about ½ inch apart.  Free-flighted lovebirds enjoy a cage-top or tabletop play area to use in the time they spend out of the cage.  Another option I use is plastic see through storage containers.  I use a fairly long container and line the inside with newspaper.  I then place another smaller container for the bird to sleep in (usually their nest box).  I then place ladders and wire mesh inside the container.  I make perches in the form of dumbells with two weighted wood on each side and the stick secured in the middle.  As for the top of the container, I placed a large wire mesh to cover the top of the container.  I think this concept works well in Hawaii where the weather is warm all year long.  It may not work in areas where the weather can get blazing hot or very very cold.

 


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